A Coffee Lover’s Guide To Ljubljana, Slovenia

Snuggled between Italy, Croatia, Austria, Hungary, and a Adriatic Sea, Slovenia is a startling tiny country. The northwest dilemma ripples with a snow-dusted peaks of a Julian Alps, while hardly 100 miles south, a country’s 29 miles of seashore adhere to a Gulf of Trieste; vineyards daub fruitful valleys girdled by evergreen forests, and fairy-tale castles boyant on bright lakes. And all of it fits within a 100-by-150-mile patch of land.

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You can transport Ljubljana, a little capital—and take your time doing it—in an hour. There are no well-developed museums or vital ancestral landmarks, though what a city lacks in geopolitical significance it creates adult with good attitude. The people are friendly, many of them pronounce English, and Ljubljana snagged a pretension of European Green Capital in 2016 for a environmental efforts. Riverside cafes line a car-free city core and fill adult in summer and winter. While a infancy of them offer blurb Italian blends, a few on-going souls have opted to work with internal or general micro-roasters. Slovenia was late to locate a specialty coffee current, in vast partial since of a deeply secure mixed of Italian, Austrian, and Slavic coffee cultures. But as some-more immature people transport and some-more tourists locate on to Slovenia’s pint-size charms, a direct and marketplace for specialty coffee is growing. Here are a standout specialty coffee cafes to know if we go.

Cafe Čokl

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I scarcely missed Cafe Čokl‘s discreet immature storefront, dreaming as we was by a bustling flower marketplace opposite a street. When we burst a doorway during 8:30 a.m., educated barista and spit Tine Čokl was already pulling Americanos for several locals, and a cozy, wood-paneled room hummed with Slovenian chatter. Čokl has been creation coffee for a past 7 years, though he got critical about specialty coffee after volunteering during a World Barista Championship in 2012. “I satisfied we didn’t unequivocally know most about coffee, that was not satisfactory to my customers,” he says. After hours of training and experimentation, he developed his possess prophesy and saw that he couldn’t demonstrate it regulating other people’s roasts—so he started roasting on his own, eventually operative adult to 15-kilogram batches. Today, he roasts for his cafeteria and 7 clients in Slovenia. Two years ago, Čokl and co-worker Živa Lopatič combined a cooperative Buna, that distributes Čokl’s roasts to other cafes in a city and works to teach Slovenians about satisfactory trade and environmental concerns. As ardent about amicable issues as he is about coffee, Čokl uses his cafeteria as an instance to other businesses: he’s operative toward 0 rubbish in a cafe, he sources his beans directly, and he privileges internal provenance for non-coffee products. “We need to infer it’s possible,” says Lopatič. “If we can do it, others can too.”

 

Kavarna Moderna

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Ljubljana is home to roughly a dozen museums, though it’s probable you’ve never listened of any of them. The city’s Museum of Modern Art is anticipating to change that. Just underneath a year ago, it invited Kavarna Moderna, a specialty coffee cafe, to take over a dilemma of a groundwork level. The sleek, complicated cafeteria bonds 3 singular origins by internal spit Escobar, as good as a rotating coffee of a month.

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Besides sparking an seductiveness in Ljubljana’s complicated art offerings, co-owner Bine Likeb hopes Kavarna Moderna will boost recognition of specialty coffee among Slovenians. “You have to benefaction a thought of meaningful a rancher you’re shopping from, roasting profiles, scheming coffee,” he says. “[You have to explain] that there’s bid put into a coffee, it’s not usually [some] product.” Kavarna Moderna positively lives adult to a name: Likeb’s brother, an architect, remade a dimly illuminated space into a friendly multi-level hangout. Clever timber chair backs and bright-colored pillows renovate extended petrify stairs into a seating area. On a alighting above, mid-century complicated meets Scandinavian cold in dual gentle loll areas. Below, baristas ready cold brew, filter, and espresso behind a sharp workstation versed with Sanremo machines for a mostly internal clientele. Insider tip: ask for a cut of a walnut cake with your V60. It’s a internal sweetmeat finished really well.

 

Stow Speciality Coffee

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Stow Speciality Coffee is really critical about coffee. Very. For a past 3 years, owners Aleš Turšič and his associate Peter Sevic have been operative on all fronts to boost a profile of specialty coffee in Slovenia. In that time, they’ve turn distributors for La Marzocco, started a Speciality Coffee Association of Europe-certification-based coffee academy, and combined a coffee festival, all while roasting for their possess cafeteria and several clients. Convinced that foe is a tip to flourishing Slovenia’s coffee scene, Sevic and Turšič have also upheld a growth of informal competitions like AeroPress, Barista Battles, and Latte Art. Stow’s superb flagship cafeteria occupies a garden turn of a City Museum in executive Ljubljana. Past meets benefaction here: on one side, a scrawl of recorded Roman hull evokes Ljubljana’s distant life as a Roman troops base; on a other, an bend potion wall looks out over a still garden. The cafeteria serves single-origin coffees in a accumulation of descent methods, along with some reduction ordinarily found products such as coffee flowers and cascara. “We wish to try to have all we can in this space,” says Sevic. “It’s time that people know what good coffee looks like.”

 

TOZD

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Credit: Matic Bajželj

Riverside spot TOZD is a charmingly uncertain space: partial cafe, partial bar, partial library. Like Tine Čokl, TOZD owners Robert Henigman was one of a initial in Ljubljana to offer specialty coffee. A cook by trade, Henigman spent about 4 years in Australia, where he worked in liberality and detected third wave coffee. In further to locally roasted coffee granted by Escobar (always dual varieties on offer), TOZD is one of a best places to try Slovenian qualification drink and informal workman spirits. You can also get a play of homemade soup, done with market-fresh ingredients, or a charcuterie-and-cheese plate. Ruster, a bar’s signature cold decoction and one of a usually in Ljubljana, comes in a house-designed potion bottle ideal for pocketing.

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Credit: Matic Bajželj

“The summary I’d like to give is always try something different, though that is internal and of good quality,” says Henigman. “People have their habits, though here we always try to change this.” The elbow-to-elbow seating in TOZD’s front room is a great vantage indicate from that to admire work by internal artists and cafeteria friends, all of it for sale. Henigman remade a behind room into a lending library with a take-a-book, leave-a-book policy. Out front, low wooden seats demeanour out over a Ljubija river. In winter, hang yourself in one of a cafe’s military-grade nap blankets and settle in for a discuss and an espresso—even when it’s snowing.

 

Escobar

You can’t speak about specialty coffee in Ljubljana though including Escobar, a city’s initial micro-roaster (even if it’s formed in a circuitously city of Vrhnika). When Omar Escobar changed to Slovenia from Honduras, he couldn’t find any coffee that he liked. So he started roasting his own. This wasn’t a totally new try for him—he grew adult on a coffee plantation and attended a Honduras Coffee Institute—so starting a specialty coffee business was a healthy prolongation of what started out as a hobby.

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Photo: pleasantness of Katja Turk Escobar and Omar Escobar

Escobar directly imports a infancy of a roastery’s single-origin beans from farmers he and his wife, Katja, know and reserve them to specialty cafes around Slovenia. The integrate also grown a high-quality mix for some-more normal cafes, and they honour themselves on being means to fry and package according to a needs of particular clients—the biggest advantage of being a tiny company, according to Katja. Last year, a Escobars roasted between 10 and 12 tons of coffee, scarcely double a year before and a pointer of a changes that are solemnly though surely underway in Slovenia. “The marketplace is tough, people here are between dual walls and they don’t like to demeanour over,” says Katja, colorfully. “[Changing] a habits of a normal Slovenian is utterly difficult. But a younger era is some-more open, and they also like to learn new coffee and new methods of preparation.”

Kate Robinson (@KateOnTheLoose) is a freelance publisher formed in Paris. Read some-more Kate Robinson on Sprudge